Featuring ‘Irresistible India’

Recently I was on board an Austrian Airlines flight. I was pleasantly surprised to see the in-flight magazine featuring ‘Irresistible India’ as their cover story. Moreover, the main focus of the feature was Delhi and I immediately grabbed it to read up. It is so true when the article talks about how tourists somehow bypass Delhi…

Purani Dilli at Ramzaan| A Photo Essay

On any ordinary day, one peek at the majestic Jama Masjid of Old Delhi will take your breath away. It will bring to your mind a picture of a royal cavalcade proceeding slowly from the Delhi Gate of the Red Fort to the entry of the royal mosque, a mighty Mughal Emperor making his way…

A Tawaif’s Palace| At Chandni Chowk, Delhi

Most of you out there must have heard about the tragic tale of Devdas, brought to life on the silver screen multiple times, played across time right from Dilip Kumar to Shah Rukh Khan. In the last version, too, the ‘tawaif’ Chandramukhi was immortalized by the lovely Madhuri Dixit, mesmerising us all with her graceful…

The Road to Khwaja Moinuddin Chishti | Ajmeri Gate, Delhi

Of course you’ve been to the New Delhi railway station and witnessed all the chaos there. Would you believe me if I told you that nearby lies a place far removed from the hustle and bustle of this busy city? Yes, friends, for all those who simply want to while away their time in case…

What’s in a name! Chawri Bazaar, Delhi

Do you know how Chawri Bazaar got its name? ‘Chawri’ is derived from the Sanskrit word ‘Chawhat’ meaning a ‘cross-section of four roads’. Another theory suggests the name comes from the Marathi word chawri, which means ‘meeting place’. The name could have stuck because of the many meetings that occurred here to resolve disputes before…

A Girl Praying at the Tomb of Sultan Iltutmish

One of the first tombs built from scratch in India, this is the tomb of Sultan Iltutmish, inside the Qutb Minar complex. It was built by the Emperor himself in 1235 AD. Note that the Mamluk Dynasty had only recently come to wield power over northern India, a territory so far occupied by Hindus alone….

It’s finger licking good! Karim’s, Chandni Chowk

While the Paranthe Wali Gali caters to your vegetarian tastes, right opposite Jama Masjid is the original Karim’s-a gastronomic delight for non-vegetarians. Well, vegetarians are welcome too, but at their own risk! If you love Mughlai food then this place would surely be your Mecca in Delhi. Located close to a market known as Darya…

Sibling Rivalry

The fascinating story of blood thirsty rivalry between two crown princesses… I know you must be wondering what’s the big deal about a little fighting here and there with your own brothers and sisters. You all fought as kids, got your parents to scold the ‘other one’, and while you smiled gleefully, your sibling secretly…

Wonder where this is?

An ornate little tomb cordoned off from the world…do you know what or where this is, dear readers? Update: This is the mausoleum of Atgah Khan, foster-father to Mughal Emperor Akbar, and minister at his court. He was murdered by Adham Khan  (a foster-brother of Akbar, not Atgah Khan’s son) out of jealousy. Those who’ve seen…

A Pilgrimage of Sorts

If you have been to Delhi but not visited the dargah of Hazrat Nizamuddin, you have missed something! Even if you are not a particularly devout follower of Sufism, this shrine would still give you a spectacle of how faith can indeed move mountains. But let’s begin at the beginning….. So the other day, together…

The Less Favorite Mosque

In the chaos of Chandni Chowk, in the horrific blare of horns and pushing and shoving of thousands of people going about their daily business and shopping sprees, history is often lost… What remain are yards and yards of sequinned sarees displayed on shop windows, vendors selling everything kitschy in the world, and a din like…

Poetry in Stone

Little did I know before I started my discovery of Delhi that this was once a land of many poets. Khusrau, Rahim, Zauq, Ghalib and countless others gave to this city its beautiful culture of lyrical poetry over the centuries. I owe my discovery of one poet’s grave to that of another…and each of them…