Of Fog and Warmth

The Delhi winter is magic. It completely transforms a city that was a blazing, scorching, burning piece of earth only a few months back, into a sleepy town shrouded in white fog. The mist reduces visibility to just a few meters, every morning for two straight months! It  plays havoc with the traffic, and makes both train…

Drama in a Fort: Tughlaq!

A mad king. A visionary. A despot who shifted the entire populace of Delhi to Daulatabad. A man far ahead of his times, who experimented with coinage but could not implement it. Sultan Muhammad bin Tughlaq remains an enigma 7 centuries after he ruled this land.

Letter to a Saint…

You can’t begin to guess what I found on my last visit to the famous Dargah of Hazrat Nizamuddin.  Anybody who’s stayed in Delhi knows the respect and veneration commanded by this saint of the 14th century…centuries later, people in the modern world still come to his shrine and whisper their deepest secrets and innermost…

Traffic jam!

I have to share something crazy that happened the other day. I was driving around with a friend in Dwarka and if you have been to that part of the city, you’d not expect the kind of traffic even remotely close to what the neighbouring area of Gurgaon faces.  So we happily took a turn…

Dusk at the Jama Masjid

A year ago around this time, on a sudden impulse, wanderfool and I hopped onto the yellow line of Delhi Metro one afternoon, and went to Chandni Chowk. At first we got caught up in the alleyways and just hopped from shop to shop, not buying anything, just taking in the hustle-bustle of the vendors, the fragrance of…

Resting Ground | The Delhi War Cemetery

There is something about a cemetery that makes me feel at peace with the world. When Death, the great equalizer, is all around me, it suddenly ceases to be frightening any more. Peace envelops me as I look around, too conscious of the impermanence and the fragile beauty of life. My friend Moony and I are visiting the…

An alternate view | Red Fort, Delhi

The first point to be ‘ticked’ off the list when a traveler visits Delhi is usually the Red Fort, the beautiful red-sandstone-and-marble citadel built by the Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan in 1648 AD. Though not much of its splendor remains, visitors are still touched by the imagined beauty of the palaces where Mughal life once…

At the end of the tunnel | Tughlaqabad Fort, Delhi

Once upon a time, many centuries ago, the mighty military rulers of the Tughlaq dynasty built a fort in Delhi. They called it Tughlaqabad. And although it had walls as thick as can be- standing sternly, majestically, almost menacingly, to this day- the ravages of time have badly crumbled up the buildings within it, until…

Bylanes of DU

“It is 8:40 already…oh my God! I am late for Real Analysis class” Everything comes at a price in this big bad world. The price of having a bath and breakfast in the morning was getting late for morning class. While I usually skipped breakfast and made it to class just in time, that day…

Onion City

My romance with Delhi began precisely a year back. Before that, I hated the place. When I came here almost 4 years ago, all I knew about the area were the great infrastructure, the swanky malls, the office spaces and the food courts in Noida and Gurgaon. Life revolved around getting to office and back…punctuated…