A Tawaif’s Palace| At Chandni Chowk, Delhi

Most of you out there must have heard about the tragic tale of Devdas, brought to life on the silver screen multiple times, played across time right from Dilip Kumar to Shah Rukh Khan. In the last version, too, the ‘tawaif’ Chandramukhi was immortalized by the lovely Madhuri Dixit, mesmerising us all with her graceful…

The Road to Khwaja Moinuddin Chishti | Ajmeri Gate, Delhi

Of course you’ve been to the New Delhi railway station and witnessed all the chaos there. Would you believe me if I told you that nearby lies a place far removed from the hustle and bustle of this busy city? Yes, friends, for all those who simply want to while away their time in case…

The “Delhie” Book and a Picnic atop the Qutb

I am excited as I’ve stumbled upon the “Delhie Book” of Thomas Metcalfe. Does not ring a bell? Well, Metcalfe was an officer of the British East India Company, and the Governor-General’s  Resident at the Imperial court of Mughal Emperor Bahadur Shah Zafar in early 19th century Delhi. He ran the ‘Delhi territory’ from 1835 to…

A Fort Lost in Time | Adilabad Fort, Delhi

The one place that every child visiting Delhi is dragged to, is, of course, the Red fort. It is a monument that attracts one of the highest footfalls in the country.  That’s perhaps because it used to be the power-center of a greater part of India less than a century ago. But what of the…

Pic-A-Day Project: Heart of Delhi

Connaught Place , the ‘central business district’ designed as part of the Lutyens’ delhi project, was built between 1929-33, after the major areas of New Delhi (Rashtrapati Bhavan, India Gate, Parliament House) had been built and the new city inaugurated. It was inspired by the magnificent Royal Crescent in Bath, England, and was named after…

Pic-A-Day Project: The Old and the New

An airplane flies into the sunset, while the Iron Pillar stands stoically in the Qutb Complex, having experienced many ups and downs in Delhi’s history ever since it was planted here in the reign of Chandragupta Vikramaditya of the Gupta dynasty (4th century AD). The Jain temples of the area fell apart, Afghans came, established…

Resting Ground | The Delhi War Cemetery

There is something about a cemetery that makes me feel at peace with the world. When Death, the great equalizer, is all around me, it suddenly ceases to be frightening any more. Peace envelops me as I look around, too conscious of the impermanence and the fragile beauty of life. My friend Moony and I are visiting the…

Gory Story | Chor Minar, Delhi

You have heard of the famous Qutb Minar, of course, but Chor Minar, huhh? Translated to Hindi, it means ‘Tower of Thieves’, but whatever does that imply?

Patch of green, splash of royalty! Lodi Gardens, Delhi

When I moved to Delhi a few years ago, I spent the first few months in the ‘new industrial areas’ of Noida and Gurgaon, much like the countless other ‘immigrants’ to Delhi. Shortly my job would send me globetrotting for months on end…and the end effect was that even though I was a resident of…

Love is foolish | a love story from AD 1236, Delhi

It is Valentine’s Day, and the town is decked up in red ribbons, heart-shaped balloons, and teddy bears. Are you part of the crowd that laps up all the love in the air and whispers sweet nothings in the ears of their sweethearts? Or of the cynical other half, that frowns at these excesses of…